Exfoliating Treatments for Aging Skin
There are several categories of exfoliants, and some have more impact and benefits than others. Most split exfoliants in the two categories: Chemical exfoliation and manual exfoliation. Chemical exfoliants rely on ingredients that bring about exfoliation by influencing the skin’s own exfoliation process. Manual exfoliants rely on physical effort such as scrubbing grains, cleansing clothes, dermabrasion machines, etc.
We are going to take it one step further and separate the chemical exfoliators into two subgroups: Cell Renewing and Traditional
The reason we needed to add this category is because there are a number of ingredients that fall into this category that most would not categorize as exfoliants. This is because they do not directly affect the exfoliation (or cell-shedding) process. Instead, they influence the exfoliation process by stimulating cell division. As we age, the mitochondria of the cells tend to slow down. Mitochondria are the control centers of the cell and produce the ATP needed for the cell to function and divide. Healthy, young skin remains smooth and radiant because fresh, new cells are continuously brought to the surface as old cells are shed. When cell division slows down, cell renewal slows down, and old, dead skin cells remain on the skin longer. The dead skin cells accumulate on the surface – causing skin to look dull and rough. These dead skin cells also create another problem for skin. They are less efficient at trapping moisture and hydration within the epidermis, so skin starts to become dry, parched, and unable to heal itself.
When a Cell Renewing exfoliant is incorporated into the routine, cell division restarts and the skin renewal process takes place much as it did when we were young. Skin starts to regain a smooth, youthful, vibrant appearance that is no longer dry, tight, or flakey.
Examples of Cell Renewing Exfoliants: Retinoids & Retinols, Growth Factors, Kinetin & Zeatin, Pyrus Malus (Apple Fruit) Stem Cell Extract.
These improve exfoliation by either dissolving or softening bonds that hold skin cells together, or by dissolving the skin cell itself.
Traditional exfoliants include alpha hydroxy acids, salicylic acid, poly hydroxy acids, acidified amino acids, and enzymes.